How to Groom Your Dog & Puppy Mobile Dog Grooming Saloons Near my Home DIY - Groom your Dog at Home! 25 Reasons Why Your Haircut Costs more then your Dog's one! Complete Dog Grooming & Haircut Guide How to Use Clippers when Grooming? How Much is it to Get My Dog Groomed? Dog Haircut & Grooming Misconceptions How do I Give My Dog a Haircut? How long it takes to Groom a Dog? How to Untangle Dog Hair Matts How To Make Dog's Fur Shining? Dog and Puppy Haircut & Grooming How to Get a Dog Used to Grooming Grooming Tips for Senior Dog Dog Grooming Styles and Prices How to Become a Good Dog Groomer Dog Hair Color, Tools & Care for Dogs Hair Design Weird, Strange, Unusual Dog Haircuts Double Coated Dog Breed List Double Coated Dog Grooming Tips Dog Hair and Tail Grooming What is Included in Dog Grooming? How To Groom Your Dog Best Dog Groomers Petsmart Grooming Prices Dog & Puppy Grooming School What is a Dog Groomer? Dog Grooming Basics Best Dog Grooming Accessories Dog Grooming Supplies Dog & Puppy Hairdresser Dog Hair, Coat, Wool Puppy Custom Haircuts Dog Fur vs Hair
25 REASONS WHY YOUR HARCUT COSTS MORE THEN YOUR DOG's ONE This article proudly presented by WWW.JACKAND RASCALS.COM
1. You don't try to hump your Hairdresser's arm or leg.
2. Your hairdresser doesn't wash your butt.
3. You don't play chicken with a skunk right before your appointment.
4. You don't pee, poop, or throw up in the hairdresser's chair.
5. You don't wait until you are clean and dry to go potty and sit in it.
6. You don't dig your fingernails into your hairdresser's arm.
7. You don't roll in dead things.
8. Your haircut takes 20-30 minutes, your dog's takes much longer.
9. Your hairdresser doesn't give you a manicure & pedicure.
10. Your Hairdresser only clips the hair on your head.
11. You don't have fleas, ticks, or mites.
12. Your Hairdresser is not expected to comb out dreadlocks.
13. Your hairdresser doesn't clean and pluck your ears.
14. You don't try to bite or lick your hairdresser.
15. You stay still and don't wiggle, jump and shake while being worked on with sharp scissors & tools.
16. You don't come in with mud, burrs, sticks, tar, sap, gum, foxtails, and poop in your hair.
17. You don't shake and cover everything including your hairdresser in 2 inches of soapy water.
18. Your Hairdresser doesn't have to shave between your toes.
19. You can tell your Hairdresser if something's wrong, she doesn't have to guess.
20. You don't poop whilst your Hairdresser is blow drying your backside.
21. Your hairdresser doesn't need to cuddle you and stroke you when you get nervous.
22. You don't walk into your hairdresser with hair that hasn't been brushed in 6 weeks or 6 months.
23. You don't scream at the top of your lungs every time the Hairdresser picks up a pair of nail clippers.
24. You don't whip around in a frenzy as soon as your hairdresser goes to clip around your ears.
25. Your Hairdresser probably won't love you if you do any of the above. In fact they would probably have you arrested.
The terms fur and hair are often used interchangeably when describing a dog's coat, however in general, a double coat, e.g., like that of the Newfoundland and most mountain dogs, is referred to as a fur coat, while a single coat, like that of the Poodle, is referred to as a hair coat.
Today I found out that there isn't any difference between fur and hair - it's all just hair!
We tend to refer to a lot of animal hair as "fur", while referring to our own hair as just "hair". It turns out though that hair and fur are chemically indistinguishable, both made up of keratin. The argument that is often cited as to why there must be a difference is that human hair will just keep growing forever, while most animal "fur" stops at a set length. In fact, the latter is true, but the former is not. Human hair will stop growing after a certain period and with your scalp at least, it tends to be a longer period than with many animals, though it varies on different parts of your body.
The maximum length of hair on various parts of your body is entirely determined by your genetics and varies widely from person to person and animal to animal. Each hair follicle has a period of growing and not growing. During the anagen period your hair grows. During the catagen period, your hair stops growing and the outer root sheath shrinks and the root of the hair is cut off from its blood supply and from the cells that produce new hair. This is followed by a telogen period, where more or less the follicle is resting. Eventually your hair falls out and the whole cycle starts again.
For humans, a typical anagen period for your scalp hair follicles will last between 2-7 years... the resting phase, telogen, here lasts about 100 days. On your arms and your legs, the anagen period lasts around 30-45 days. This explains why the hair on your arms and legs doesn't get that long compared to your head hair and more or less always seems to stay at a seemingly fixed length.
Various mammals have different growth cycles on their hair than humans do, thus why cat hair seems to stop growing at a certain, relatively short, length; not too dissimilar from the growth rate and length of the hair on a human's arms and legs. But in the end, hair and fur are chemically the same exact thing. There is no difference other than what we chose to call "fur" or "hair", which is often pretty arbitrary.
For instance, in many dogs with naturally short hair, it is typical to call this fur, though not always. But if the dog's hair gets naturally long, we tend to call this hair, even though the only difference is in the length of the anagen period of the hair follicle growth cycle. Dogs such as the Poodle or Havanese tend to have a very long anagen cycle, which is why most pet owners will have their hair cut. Other dogs, such as a Labrador, have relatively short anagen periods, so their hair never gets that long.
Fur and Hair Are Chemically the Same The reality is that both fur and hair are chemically indistinguishable. They are both made up of keratin, the chemical that also creates skin and nails. Technically this means that whether a dog has hair or fur, it's not the reason they may appear to be hypoallergenic.
Hair Has a Longer Growth Cycle One difference in determining hair from fur is the growing cycle. Hair has various growth phases and the length of the various phases helps determine if people consider the dog's coat to be fur or hair.
Anagen is the phase of new hair growth.
Catagen is the transition phase where hair stops growing and the outer root sheath attaches to the hair.
Telogen is the resting phase.
Exogen is when the hair falls out and the follicle moves back into the anagen phase. The exogen phase is typically longer during warm months as the undercoats and excess hair are used as insulation during cold weather.
Hair seems to continuously grow, having a longer anagen phase, while coats that continuously shed have shorter anagen hair growth phases and are called fur.
The hair of a dog does not grow continously, but in cycles, similar to our eyebrows. Anagen is the first phase, in which the hair is produced. The new hair grows along side the old hair, which is subsequently lost. Catagen is an intermediate stage in the cycle, and telogen is the resting phase in which the follicle is basically dormant. The hair follicles are not all in the same phase at the same time, which is why we do not see a lot of bald dogs!
Fur and Hair Have Different Textures Texture is also a key factor in distinguishing hair from fur. Hair tends to be longer and finer in texture, and will frequently be wavy or curly. It is this curliness that actually traps the shedding hair and dander inside the coat, giving the appearance that the coat doesn't shed and doesn't produce allergic reactions. It is this factor, along with absence of an undercoat, that gives the impression that certain breeds are allergen-free. Fur is typically shorter and more dense in texture, with a finer undercoat during the colder months for warmth. Because the shedding hair easily drops from the dog, it only appears that the shedding is more profuse than the finer hair coat. The only real differences between hair and fur are the descriptions that we have applied to hair and fur that determine the type of coat a dog has. One is not more allergen-free than the other, it is the lack of loose hair and dander as well as well as other factors, that determine whether a person is allergic or not.
DOG HAIRCUT STYLES (By Breed) This article proudly presented by and and WWW.DOGICA.COM
The Summer Cut A summer cut is a good maintenance trim.
The Lamb Trim A lamb trim is good all purpose dog haircut. It can be put on many different long haired breeds. Poodles, terriers, toy breeds, as well as larger breeds.
The Scissored Lamb Trim A scissored lamb trim makes a nice looking dog grooming trim and gives you the option to be a little more creative in your dog grooming with the length and the shaping of the coat.
Maltese Groom When grooming a maltese you will need to decide if you're keeping your dog in a show trim, a variation of a show trim or a pet trim. In the long run a shorthaired trim will be less work for you and your dog. Whatever your decision you will need certain dog grooming equipment and to follow certain dog grooming processes.
Havanese Groom Grooming a Havanese: You've seen your Havanese in show coat, it looks great and in actuality it is a lot of work. If you are willing to take it on that's great otherwise you may want to think about putting your dog in a shorter trim, one that is more manageable and a lot less work.
Chi Hua Hua Chihuahua grooming is a fairly simple dog grooming task for both shorthaired and longhaired Chihuahuas. Long haired Chihuahuas are usually kept in their natural state but if the long coat is a problem you may want to give your dog a haircut. Either a summer cut, puppy cut or a variation of one of the two cuts.
The Pomeraninan Grooming a Pomeranian does not have to be lot of work. Daily brushing of your Pomeranian is a must if you're keeping him in full coat.
American Cocker Spaniel The American Cocker Spaniel haircut. This is dog grooming for your pet Cocker Spaniel.
Yorkshire Terrier Many owners of pet Yorkies are always asking us about the best way to cut their Yorkie's hair. There are a LOT of options out there.
Miniature Schnauzer The Miniature Schnauzer haircut is a specific dog haircut.
The Continental The Continental cut is the most popular cut for poodles. The style shows off the dog's hind legs. With this cut, the hind legs and behind are shaved. Pompoms can be kept on the hip bones if preferred. The face, legs, feet and tail are also shaved, but there are "bracelets" of fur above each paw and a pompom poof at the end of the tail. The remaining fur stays as is.
Chih Tzu Groom You may want to keep your Shih Tzu in a long trim like you see in dog shows or in a short trim which will actually be less work for you and your dog.
The Puppy The Puppy cut is used to get dogs used to grooming habits, as well as a standard trim for all dogs. With this cut, the fur is trimmed evenly, but kept at a longer length. Some dogs will be shaved on the face in order to see better. Poodles with a puppy cut are also shaved at the base of the tail, creating a pompom look on the end of the tail.
The Retriever The Retriever cut is common for long-haired dogs and curly-haired dogs. This cut is basically shaving the fur to about an inch long, with the face and tail even shorter. The name comes from the fact that this cut is meant to make the fur more manageable, like that of a Golden Retriever. The cut also helps to keep long-haired dogs cool in warmer climates.
The Lion The Lion cut is popular with many dogs, and even cats. Pomeranians are most recognizable with the lion cut because the color of their fur resembles that of a lion. The lion cut is when the back half of the dog is shaved very, very short (like a buzz cut) with the tip of the tail left as a pompom. The front half of the dog is left with longer fur and the legs are often shaved down with a pompom around the feet.
The Teddy Bear The Teddy Bear cut is similar to the Retriever cut, but longer. The cut is meant to keep the dog cuddly and soft-looking, but also to keep the fur clean and trimmed evenly. This cut for dogs is like "getting a trim" for humans. It's simply for maintenance and clean lines. This cut differs from the Puppy cut in that the fur is kept a little shorter than the Puppy (and longer than the Retriever) and the face and tail are shaved shorter than the rest of the body (also like the Retriever).
Original & Unique Many dog owners choose to style their dog's fur in a style that isn't traditional, like a mohawk. Dying dogs' fur has also been done. There are many different cuts suitable for different breeds, based on the breed specifics. Some dogs swim often, and some cuts are better for water speed. Ask your vet or dog groomer for cut recommendations for your dog.
DOG GROOMING EQUIPMENT (BASIC LIST) This article proudly presented by
First on the list is what you will need for prepping and bathing your dog and then what you will need to finish up with his dog grooming.
You will need:
1 dog grooming table with grooming arm and grooming noose 1 - slicker brush 1 - pin brush 1 - medium and coarse tined metal comb (Greyhound style) 1 - pair of dog nail clippers - size dependant on your dog 1 - small container of styptic powder (just incase) 1 - pair of 5 inch straight hemostats for ear cleaning
Cotton balls and or Q-tips: 1 - bottle ear cleaner 1 - 2 speed dog grooming clippers with #10 blade 1 - dog grooming clippers #30 blade 1 - bottle dog shampoo (preferably hypoallergenic and tearless) 1 - dog dryer (or a way to dry your dog)
Now for the dog grooming tools. You already have your dog grooming clippers and a couple of clipper blades.
Here is the rest of the list:
1 - pair of straight 6 inch dog grooming scissors Clipper blades of your choosing (for the length of trim you want to accomplish)
This is enough in the way of dog grooming tools to get you started on your first dog grooming adventure. Now I will give you a couple of options that can make it a bit easier for you depending on what your dog needs are:
1 - pair of 6 inch curved dog grooming scissors 1 - pair of thinning shears 1 - set of dog grooming clippers blade combs If you want a longer cut on your dogs
DOUBLE COATED DOGS The material is proudly presented by WWW.PETGUIDE.COM and Kate Barrington
Two times the coat, two times the fur? If you have got a double coated dog, here's what you need to know about this type of fur. Every dog breed is just a little bit different from the others and these differences take many forms. One of the most basic ways in which one dog differs from another is in its coat. Dog coats can be divided into two main categories – single coat and double coat. Within each category there are some variations, but these are the two basic categories you should know before grooming your dog. Let's go over the basics about double coated dogs including which breeds have double coats and how to properly maintain this type of coat.
What is a Double Coat? A double coat is a type of coat that consists of two layers. Double coated dogs have a dense undercoat of short hairs, typically with a wooly texture, over a top coat of longer hairs called guard hairs. The denser the undercoat, the fluffier the coat will appear to be and the more grooming the dog will require. The undercoat serves mainly to keep the dog protected from extreme temperatures - both hot and cold, while the top coat helps to repel moisture and dirt.
Which Dog Breeds Have Double Coats? For the most part, you can tell just by looking at a dog whether it has a double or single coat. This is especially true for Spitz-type dogs and other breeds with thick, fluffy coats. There are also some small-breed dogs that have double coats including several terriers which have a wiry rather than a soft top coat. Some examples of double-coated breeds include:
Akita Alaskan Husky Chow Chow Finnish Lapphund Keeshond Shiba Inu Siberian Husky Australian Shepherd Old English Sheepdog Shetland Sheepdog Bernese Mountain Dog Great Pyrenees Newfoundland Golden Retriever Labrador Retriever Cairn Terrier Parson Russel Terrier Scottish Terrier Miniature Schnauzer Havanese Pomeranian Shih Tzu Yorkshire Terrier
Grooming Tips for Double-Coated Breeds Regular grooming is incredibly important for double-coated dog breeds because these dogs tend to shed a lot. If you do not routinely brush your dog's coat the shed hairs will become caught up in the coat, causing mats and tangles to form. Grooming is also a great way to keep dog-related allergies to a minimum, though you cannot keep a dog from shedding entirely. Below you will find a collection of tips for grooming your double coated dog:
1. - Brush your dog at least two or three times a week to prevent mats and tangles.
2. - Use a undercoat grooming rake to remove loose and dead hairs from your dog's undercoat.
3. - Use a slicker brush on your dog's rump where the fur is thicker and longer.
4. - Go over your dog with a wire pin brush or comb to remove dead and loose hairs from the top coat.
5. - Work through mats and tangles with a wide-tooth comb - if you have to cut one out, pinch the fur as close to your dog's skin as possible to prevent accidentally cutting his skin.
6. - Go over your dog's coat with a bristle brush to improve shine - this should be your last step.
In addition to learning how to groom your double-coated dog, you should also familiarize yourself with a few grooming mistakes that dog owners often make. The biggest mistake you can make with your double coated dog is to shave his coat. Some dog owners mistakenly believe that their dog's double coat makes them hot in the summer and they shave the dog's coat in an attempt to cool him off. What these dog owners do not realize is that a dog's double coat acts as insulation, protecting him from the heat. A dog's double coat is part of his natural cooling system - each layer helps not only to keep the dog cool, but it protects his skin from sun damage as well. If you are worried about your dog being too hot in the summer, consult a professional groomer about the possibility of trimming his coat but in no case should you shave your double coated dog. Grooming is one of your most basic responsibilities as a pet owner so it is up to you to make sure you know how to do it correctly.
TOP DOG HAIR CLIPPERS This article proudly presented by WWW.DOGICA.COM
Don't blindly purchase the first dog clippers you see, find out which one is perfect for you. Check this TOP DOG HAIR CLIPPERS review by WWW.NAILCLIPPR.COM
DOG FUR SHINING TIPS This article proudly presented by WWW.WIKIHOW.COM
Your dog's coat is one of the clearest indicators of your dog's overall health. A dull or damaged coat may indicate disease, poor grooming, or parasites. If you've determined that your dog isn't suffering from a medical condition that affects his coat, it's easy to make your dog's coat shine. Flaxseed oil and fish oils are rich in Omega 6. Unfortunately, fish oils do smell "fishy" so you may prefer to give a capsule so that the dog's breath doesn't smell bad as a result. Be wary of over-the-counter treatments if you suspect your dog has internal parasites. These store-bought remedies can be poisonous to your dog.
PART I: Improving Your Dog's Coat
1. Feed your dog a healthy and well-balanced diet. If you buy a commercial dog food, make sure it contains the proper balance of nutrients. You may want to ask your vet to recommend a product and dosage specific to your dog. A nutritionally-rich diet is important in maintaining the health and condition of your dog's coat. If you choose to make your own dog food, talk with the vet about making sure it's got the right balance of vitamins and minerals. Making your own dog food at home is a great way to be completely sure of what you are feeding your dog.
2. Supplement your dog's diet with omega fatty acids. Look for an omega-6 supplement or consider adding safflower or sunflower oil to your dog's food. If adding the oil, give 1 teaspoon a day to a small dog or 1 tablespoon a day for a large dog. Avoid giving too much, since it could cause diarrhea. You may also want to give omega-3 fatty acids, which have a greater anti-inflammatory effect. These are found in flaxseed and fish oils. Regardless of the supplement you choose, always follow the packaging for dosage instructions. Omega fatty acids can reduce the itchy skin of dogs with allergies, since they have natural anti-inflammatory effects. They also nourish the cells that are developing at the deepest layer of your dog's skin. It will take at least 28 days for these skin cells to become the top layer and reveal an extra plush coat, so don't stop supplementing before that time.
3. Groom your dog regularly. You should groom your dog every few days, regardless of whether he has long or short hair. Be sure to use dog brushes and combs, since they're designed to remove tangles, mats, dead skin cells, and dander. You will need to look for tools that are best suited to your dog's fur. Always brush with the lie of the fur to distribute the natural oils through the hair and use a comb to get rid of tangles. Grooming also improves the oxygen supply to your dog's skin. This can improve the health and look of your dog's coat. You may want to rub a dry leather chamois over your dog's coat to buff and polish it.
5. Bathe your dog with the proper shampoo. To avoid stripping the natural oils from your dog's coat, leaving him prone to dryness, shampoo your dog no more than once a month. Choose a shampoo specifically made for dogs and look for one that matches your dog's coat and skin sensitivity. For example, if your dog scratches a lot, you may want to choose a sensitive shampoo or look for one made with oatmeal since oatmeal acts as a natural itch reliever. If your dog loves to roll in mud and needs frequent washing, chose the mildest shampoo you can find, preferably one that's moisturizing. Be sure to rinse the dog's coat thoroughly. Any residual shampoo or conditioner left in the coat can irritate the skin and make the coat look dull and lifeless.
6. Check for parasites. Thoroughly look through your dog's coat for parasites, like fleas or ticks, which can affect your dog's coat and overall health. Since ticks are larger and slower, they will be easier to see than fleas. To check for fleas, run your fingers over several parts of your dog's coat - like behind the ears, down the back, near the tail, and on the belly. Look for small pinpoint-sized black spots, known as flea dirt. These are flea droppings that are usually concentrated in one area. You may want the veterinarian to check for worms and other internal parasites. These can feed off your dog and rob him of nutrients, damaging his coat. Your vet can check a fecal sample and prescribe medication to treat your dog. One parasite (cheyletiella) is known as "walking dandruff" because it looks like large flakes of dandruff and if you watch carefully you may see it walk. Your vet will check for this and might recommend your dog be sprayed with medication once every two weeks for 2 or 3 treatments.
PART II: Identifying Skin & Health Issues
1. Determine if your dog is unwell. If your dog is sick or feeling nauseous, he may stop grooming. This leads to a dull, unkempt coat and can signal to veterinarians that your dog has a medical condition. Check in with your veterinarian if you notice any one of the following symptoms in your dog: Lack of appetite, Excessive thirst, Vomiting, Diarrhea or soft stools, Smelly Breath, Smelly ears, Lameness, Difficulty Breathing.
2. Check your dog for sore teeth. Sore teeth can make it harder for your dog to eat. As a consequence, he may be messier and get food in his coat. To check for sore teeth, lift your dog's lip and take a look at the teeth and gums. His mouth should look like yours, with white teeth and pink gums. If the teeth are coated in tartar - a white buildup, the teeth are wobbly, or the gums are inflamed and bleeding, then your pet needs veterinary attention. You may also notice your dog's breath smells bad and he's a messy eater. If his teeth hurt, he will drop food out of his mouth when he chews. This can contribute to a dirty coat.
3. Consider if your dog has arthritis Arthritis, or inflammation of the joints, can cause stiffness and pain. Your dog may be too stiff and sore to easily groom himself. If this is the case, you will notice your dog walking stiffly and having difficulty using stairs or jumping in a vehicle. You will need to talk to the veterinarian about medication to treat the pain of arthritis. In the meantime, help your dog by grooming him daily. Pay particular attention to areas that your dog can't comfortably reach.
4. Check if your dog has a greasy coat or scaly skin. Pay attention for scaly, dandruff prone skin or an especially greasy coat. Your dog may have a condition called seborrhea, in which the skin's follicles create too much oil. This can trigger skin flaking or dandruff. Your vet will need to determine the cause of the greasy or scaly skin in order to recommend a treatment. Your vet may recommend supplementing your dog's diet with vitamin A or zinc to clear up any skin conditions.
DOG GROOMING BASICS This article proudly presented by and WWW.SARAHSDOGS.COM
Dog grooming is one of your dog's basic needs and an important part of dog ownership. Just like people, dogs need physical maintenance to look and feel their best. Fortunately, dogs do not need to bathe as often as people, but you do need to learn how much grooming your dog actually needs and keep it on a schedule.
Generally, a dog's grooming needs depend on the breed and hair type. If your dog has a skin, ear or nail condition, follow your veterinarian's instructions regarding grooming your dog. It is also important to use the appropriate grooming tools. Here are some dog grooming basics to remember.
1. Hair Brushing Most dogs enjoy being brushed, and sessions will strengthen the bond with your dog while maintaining a healthy coat. A dog's minimum brushing needs depend on hair type. Choose the right tools and follow these guidelines.
Long-haired dogs usually require daily brushing to prevent matting and tangling of hair. Medium-haired dogs may be prone to matting and tangles and should be brushed at least weekly. Short-haired dogs can typically go up to a month in-between brushing.
Regardless of hair type, you can brush your dog daily, especially if he enjoys it. More frequent brushing during shedding season can help prevent hair build-up and excess shedding. Consider products like the FURminator deShedding tool or the Bamboo Shedding Blade.
2. Nail Trimming Nail trims are often detested by dogs and owners alike. Most dogs dislike even having their paws handled and know how much it hurts when nails are cut too short. Dog owners are often uncomfortable with the process for fear of hurting their dogs.
Dogs will develop an aversion to nail trimming once they experience pain from it.
The best way to avoid this is to learn how to trim nails correctly and exercise caution. Ideally, a veterinary technician, vet, or groomer should teach you how to trim your dog's nails. Most dogs need monthly nail trims, but your dog may need more or less depending on the rate of growth.
An alternative to nail trimming is the use of a rotary tool to file down nails. Consider the Peticure Grooming Tool for this task.
3. Bathing Bath time does not mean fun to most dogs and owners. It may bring forth an image of a wet dog running from the tub, dripping all over the house. Bathing does not have to be this way if your dog can get used to it. He may not like the bath, but he will be easier to manage. Learn how to bathe your dog properly and make the experience as positive as you can for you and your dog.
Most dogs should be bathed monthly, but bathing as often as once a week is not considered harmful. Always use a soap-free shampoo that is intended for dogs. Depending on the condition of your dog's skin and coat, your veterinarian may recommend a specific shampoo. In this case, be sure to follow your veterinarian's instructions about bathing.
4. Ear Care Your dog's ears can be a haven for bacteria and yeast if not kept clean. Some dogs can go their whole lives without ear problems, and the only routine ear cleaning needed is during the monthly bath. Other dogs have chronic ear disease and require multiple cleanings a day.
Ear problems can often be traced back to genetics. Dogs with floppy ears or long hair tend to be predisposed to ear problems because the ear canal simply does not have as much air exposure. Many ear problems are a sign of allergies. If your dog has excess debris or foul odor in his ears, your veterinarian will likely prescribe special ear cleaners and medications. If your dog's ears are relatively healthy, you can help keep them that way with proper ear care.
5. Haircut Dogs with continuously growing hair, such as the Poodle or Shih Tzu, typically need their hair cut every 2-4 weeks depending on the breed of the dog and the style of the cut. This task is often best left to professional groomers, though many dog owners are able to learn some basic maintenance haircuts. If you are interested in learning professional dog grooming skills, consider dog grooming school.
Dogs are typically not very patient when you groom them so keep the sessions short. Offer your pet treats to keep them still and calm.
Your grooming should start when the pet is still a puppy. As he grows older, it will be easier to get through the grooming sessions.
Follow positive reinforcement techniques (like petting and talking in a sweet voice). This makes the grooming sessions pleasant and helps him feel more comfortable during veterinary procedures too.
Does your dog need a bath? How often you bathe your dog depends upon his lifestyle. The more active he is, the more bathing he will require. Generally speaking, a dog should not be bathed more than once a week. On the other hand, he shouldn't go more than 4-6 weeks without a bath, unless you like a smelly house!.
Brush your dog after a bath while he is still wet. It's easier to get the excess hair out. Then brush again when he is dry.
Many owners forget to brush their dog's teeth. Don't forget! It's really important! Get some dog toothpaste and a dog toothbrush at your local vet. Place toothpaste on the toothbrush and gently rub your dog's teeth in a circular motion, just like you would brush your own teeth! Don't forget those back teeth where plaque builds up.
A dog's nails need to be trimmed every few months, depending on how active he is. Trimming a dog's nails can be dangerous and painful if it is done incorrectly. We suggest leaving this for a trained professional. But if you must cut your dog's nails at home, be sure to use a proper nail cutting tool and cut away from the bloodline.
DOG GROOMING GUIDE This article proudly presented by WWW.WIKIHOW.COM and Rick
How to train your dog to sit still during grooming
In order to get your dog to sit still during grooming there are four important training sections:
Standing Sit-Stay Distraction Training Grooming & Nail Clipping Acceptation
According to Rick of Wiggly Tails - a dog groomer in Perth. It is important to start early with this training. Don't start a day before the first grooming session! As with anything, it takes time to train your beloved dog.
Standing Training your dog to enjoy their grooming session at an early age is a must for pet owners. You can make this a positive experience for your dog by training them when they are young pups. Several basic commands that are important to a pet owner and often taught during puppy training are the sit, stand and come commands. In addition to grooming, the stand command can also come in handy if you show your dog or attend rally classes. Begin the exercise by asking your dog to sit. With a treat in hand, move the morsel forward toward your body. When your dog stands to sample the treat, praise them and give the snack as the reward. Practise the exercise until they master the command. Because the groomer will need to beautify different areas of their body, you can cue them on the stand-stay command. This allows them sufficient time to go over the dog and ensure that they are perfectly coiffed. Gently pat and touch different areas on their body to get them used to the movements.
Sit-Stay Whether your dog is getting a haircut, nails trimmed, fur blown dry or bathed, they are going to need to be kept calm. You can help your dog through the process by teaching them how to sit still. Positive reinforcement through praise, petting or a treat are all popular training methods. You can begin by placing your dog in the sit position for short amounts of time. If they perform this task, they get the reward. If they break form, they are placed back into the sit position. As your dog progresses, increase the amount time that they need to sit before they are rewarded. If your dog is older or has health complications, they may be more comfortable in the down stay position. Practise the same drills using treats, praise or belly rubs.
Preparing Your Pup for Distractions Because your dog will have an assortment of grooming needs throughout their lives, you want to get them used to an assortment of distractions. If your dog is scared or breaks their sit-stay suddenly, it could put both them and groomer at risk. This is especially important when your dog is getting their nails trimmed. As your dog is in the sit-stay command, find activities that will distract them and break their position. If your dog loves to fetch, bounce a tennis ball past them while sitting. If they show signs of going after the balls, place them back in the sit-stay position. For dogs who fail to break the command, you can reward them positively with a treat. Other forms of distraction during their sit-stay include walking around the room, greeting friends and making loud noises. If your dog gets nervous or excited, practise this exercise until it no longer causes them anxiety or stress.
Training Your Dog to Stay and Accept Grooming Keeping your dogs nails trimmed and hair cut is an important part of the grooming process. You can begin by teaching your dog to accept being brushed by keeping the sessions short and comforting. Look for a brush where the bristles are soft and feel welcoming against the puppies face and torso. As you move along their body, gently pick up each paw and touch it with the brush. Give the dog belly rubs, praise and a treat as positive reinforcement. Since their groin, paws and underarms are sensitive areas, be extra gentle when manoeuvring the brush. Touching their paws with gentle games of "got your paw" can prove helpful when it's time for your dog to get their nails trimmed. After the nail trimming session, offer praise and treats as their reward for good behaviour.
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No one claims that the steps necessary to learn dog grooming styles are pleasant and simple.
Before any actual grooming begins, it is smart to pick an appropriate area of your home that will give you some space to work and is forgiving of a hairy mess! Many people choose to groom their dog outside to prevent the possibility of home damage. Some people prefer to place their dog on a table for a grooming session. Others are more comfortable sitting on the ground where they have more control over their dog's movements.
A clean dog is always much easier to groom. Not only is it easier on you but it will extend the life of your clippers. If your dog has become extremely matted it may be difficult to give him a bath, in this case, it may be time for a good old- fashioned shave down! Even if your dog's hair is in good shape, give them a thorough shampoo bath as well and allow them to dry before moving onto the next step.
Once you and your clean dog are situated in your special grooming spot, take out your metal, heavy duty comb and your fine-wired brush. Start by combing out the areas that are not matted. Next it's time to conquer the matted areas. These areas are often found behind the ears, under the tail, inside the thighs and on the backs of the rear legs. If you find a matted area, move onto the next step. If not, way to go, and move on to step 5!
Getting out a tough matted section of hair can be tedious and occasionally painful for your dog. Keep this in mind and work slowly. First, take your comb and start at the edge of the mat, using the teeth of the comb to slowly pull the mat away from the skin. Once you have raised the mat as far away from the skin as possible, then take your scissors and begin to clip right under the mat. Though this clipping technique will probably not leave you with the look you intended when you set out to learn dog grooming styles, it is the best way to remove matted hair from your dog.
Now you have finally gotten to the step where you can let your artistic juices flow, your dog is your canvas! Learn dog grooming styles that you prefer for your dog and practice, practice, practice!
Please, don't get overzealous with the clippers. Keep in mind that the noise clippers make is not one favored by our dog's sensitive little ears. Turn the clippers on and allow your dog to become accustomed to the sound. Place the side of the clippers on the dog's skin and let them feel the vibrations. Once your dog seems accepting of the clippers, you can begin using them on the dog's hair. Finally the clipping begins by starting at the back of the ears. The position that you hold the clippers is very important in order to prevent a skin rash or a cut.
Lay them flat against the dog's body and make slow, long strokes following the way the dog's hair naturally lays. Refrain from making any type of scooping motion with the clippers. Use the same long slow strokes around the entire body of the dog until you reach the point where you began. Proceed to the legs, using the same method and remembering to follow the lay of the hair. The top of the head can be trimmed using the clippers, but use caution when you get close to the eyes.
Once you have finished with the clippers, your dog should be dying to get free and your arm will be aching. Are we having fun yet? Press on - you're almost done! Now is time for your dog's face. You will want to use your scissors VERY slowly around the eyes and nose. Many people like to use the scissors to trim the ears to a desired length. If you are very talented with the scissors then feel free to be creative when styling the adorable face of your dog.
Lastly, you may find it necessary to bathe your dog after the grooming is complete. This depends on the type of hair the dog has and whether or not the trimmed hair is clinging on for dear life. It's also a good way to get all of the loose hair out.
Congratulations! You made it, hopefully unscathed,through all nine steps. Give your dog a treat and pat yourself on the back. And remember, the more you do this with your dog, the easier it will get for both of you.
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Matted dog hair may be one of the worst grooming issues a dog owner can experience. It's caused by excess loose hair that gets unbearably tangled. Getting rid of mats is painful for both of you, so what you really need to invest your time in is preventing matting. Here is how:
1. Make sure your dog has the right diet You are what you eat, and so is your dog. Feed it a healthy, balanced diet rich in omega 3s - yep! they are just as good for your dog as they are for you. The omega 3s will help with any allergies or skin conditions that can cause difficulty while combing or bathing, which can lead to matting. You can even give your fur baby a daily dose of fish oil, but ask your vet what the best dosage is for your dog's size.
2. Bathe your dog regularly As long as you've been regularly combing your dog, regular bathing is key. Bathe it at least once a month, more frequently if matting becomes a serious issue.
3. Try a detangler Use a good detangling shampoo and conditioner when giving your dog a bath, and when the bath is over, you can spritz it down with tangle prevention sprays like The Stuff for Dogs for a little extra protection.
4. Brush regularly Between baths, do brush and comb regularly - don't forget the legs, chest, underarms and tummy. Those can mat, too, and may tend to do so more easily in some breeds. Treat it just like human hair in some ways, sectioning it out when you brush it. Do it a minimum of once a week, but if you notice lots of knots in its fur, it's best to do it more often. It will be easier for you and less stressful or painful for your pup. It may get more necessary with age as it grooms itself less frequently.
5. Choose the right brush Steer clear of those cheap pin brushes with plastic nubs on the ends. They can get tangled in human hair, so they aren't much better for dogs. If you have a real matting problem, don't expect the local pet supply store - chain or not, to have the brush you need. Look online for the stuff the pros use. Spend some cash on a really good nub free slicker brush and follow it up with a combing for good measure. You can reapply the detangling spray if necessary.
6. Use thinning shears If you get a mat you can't get out, don't shave your pup. Consider using thinning shears to selectively work on that area until the mat itself falls out.
BEST DOG HAIR REMOVAL TOOLS The material is proudly presented by WWW.ROVER.COM and Elisabeth Geier
For animal lovers, pet hair and pet hair removal are just a fact of life. It's one of those small inconveniences we accept as part of the doggy deal alongside muddy paw prints on the kitchen floor and slobbery kisses when you know exactly where that mouth has been. This list of tried and true dog hair removal tools has something for everyone, from premium appliances to some simple household hacks. Whether you are dealing with long hair or short fur, these tools will help you get the best dog fur in your home.
- The classic. Relatively inexpensive and easy to use, the only downside is that these handy rollers don't stand up to de-hairing the entire living room in one go, and are best suited to small jobs like cleaning off your work clothes on your way out the door. $6 on Amazon.com. Less expensive hack? Sticky tape wrapped around your hand will remove pet hair from carpet, clothes, furniture, and soft surfaces far more cheaply than the sticky roll tapes of a pet hair roller.
2. Evercare Pet Mega Cleaning Roller - This thing is like a lint roller on steroids, definitely a pet parent must-have. With a 3' long handle and a giant, super-sticky roller, it works sort of like a duster, only it really traps hair. We like it for furniture, and also for low-pile carpets and rugs. Note that it's not great for a deeper or shag carpet. $56 on Amazon
3. Grooming and Deshedding Glove - A dog grooming tool and surface cleaner all in one, this has the added benefit of looking like some kind of science fiction prop. Just pet your dog with the glove to give her a shiny coat, and then pick up stray hair from the furniture with the same petting motion. $9 on Amazon
4. FUR-D Duo Fur Remover - This is my personal favorite dog grooming tool/fur remover brush for quick clean-up around the house. Two sizes of rubber pet hair capturing bristles bigger bristles can be used to brush your dog's coat and remove loose fur before it has the chance to get stuck to your stuff, and the finer bristles are perfect for brushing hair off the upholstery. Plus, it comes in cute colors! $5.98 on Amazon
5. FURemover Broom - Rubber brooms like this are a staple in doggy daycare for their strong hair-gathering ability. The sweeper version of the FURemover is effective on several surfaces, so you can de-hair the carpeted living room and the tiled kitchen in one go, and the long handle means you can work the pet hair out of your rugs from a standing position. Plus, it's a multi-tasker with uses far beyond pet hair removal: After you clean up after your dog, you can use the FURemover broom to scrub the bathroom tile or wash the car! $20 on Amazon
6. KONG ZoomGroom - This is a cute little dog grooming tool with stiff but gentle rubber bristles that remove loose hair and stimulate dogs' skin for a healthy, shiny coat. I use ZoomGrooms regularly for gentle brushing, and at bath time to help work shampoo through my dogs' coats. $4.79 on Amazon
7. Pick It Up Mitt - We love a wearable tool, and pet hair removal mitts are affordable and effective for gathering pet hair off of fabric. I don't know what magic material these gloves are made from, but they have soft have little nubs that pick up pet hair, and are easily cleaned by rubbing two mitts together in opposite directions. Mitts are great for removing hair from more delicate clothing, as the soft material means your clothes won't be pulled or pilled from abrasion. This lint brush works well for pet hair and everyday cleanup and dusting, too. $10 on Amazon
8. Pledge Fabric Sweeper - This uses two rollers to lift and trap pet hair, and the attached handle/hair trapper can be emptied between rounds. Online reviewers rave about the efficiency of this handheld tool, and it's easy to find in most major stores. I like it best for cleaning up pillows and couch cushions.
9. Dyson Animal Upright Vacuum Cleaner - The Cadillac of pet hair removal tools, and my fantasy appliance, the Dyson Animal has powerful suction and best of all, a tangle-free turbine tool to remove dirt and hair from carpets and upholstery. There are other competent pet hair vacuums on the market, but this bad boy is the dream. $468 on Amazon
10. Shark Rotator Professional Lift-Away - The Rotator is a quality everyday vacuum that gets the job done, and it-s often on sale for less than $190. If you are not ready to splurge on a Dyson, the Shark Rotator is the vacuum for you. Though it's not billed as being specifically for pet hair cleanup, it gets rave reviews from pet owners for its hair-annihilating properties. It's lightweight, easy to maneuver, and easy to clean. $170 on Amazon
11. FURminator - If the Dyson Pet is the Cadillac of pet hair vacuum cleaners, then this is the Porsche of dog grooming tools: compact, powerful, efficient, and worth every penny. The Furminator helps keep your dog's coat in great shape, and reduces shedding by removing loose fur from the undercoat before it has a chance to hit your furniture. Used appropriately on the right dog, the Furminator can help prevent excess hair mess and minimize your need for other tools on this list. $27 on Amazon
12. Rubber Gloves - Here it is, the unbelievable, incredible, household object life hack that will make pet hair cleanup a breeze: a plain old rubber glove. Put on a pair of basic grocery store dish gloves, get them just barely damp or even go dry, and go to town on your fur-covered sofa, rug, or pants. At a certain point you just roll over and accept the dog hair that creeps onto every surface in your home. As long as the dog is around, the hair will be, too. Still, it's helpful to have a toolbox to turn to when cleaning time rolls around. Feel free to leave your favorite dog hair removal tools & tips in the comments, and happy spring cleaning!
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To trim dog tails is a simple task. It won't take you but a minute or two to do this and it's one of the finishing touches to your dog grooming adventure.
With your dog bathed and brushed and in the trim you want, you won't be needing much in the way of dog grooming equipment. You will want your dog brush, greyhound comb and dog grooming scissors.
Using the following processes will give you a nice flagged tail. Also when trimming dog tails if you bring the hair up short enough you won't have the tail hair dragging on the floor and collecting dirt.
Be sure your dog's tail is thoroughly brushed out and there are no mats or snarls. Tails tend to snarl and mat on the underside up close to the tail. So use your comb and make sure there are no problems there.
Brush or comb through the hair on the tail.
Wrap your hand around the base of the tail and slide your hand down past the tail to the end of the hair and twist it. Before you make your cut, take your comb and check to make sure you are cutting only hair and not your dog's tail. If the comb goes all the way through then it should be safe to cut. It won't hurt to double check by physically feeling the area to make sure it's only hair.
After you make that cut, brush thru the hair again, pull the tail out to the rear of the dog, then clean up and shape the remaining hair. See the dog pictures below.
PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ARE ONLY TRIMMING OFF HAIR AND NOT THE END OF THE TAIL ITSELF WHEN DOING THIS PROCESS !!!
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Comfort comes first! If you have an elderly dog, it is best to go for a mobile dog groomer. This way your dog will be from from just outside your door, this will minimize the undue stress on your senior dog. Make sure you take your dog to a reputable groomer, after all does not your best friend deserve the best? Should my senior dog still see the groomer? Yes, indeed. While regular grooming is vital for every dog, this is especially important when your dog gets older.
Regular grooming sessions will not only make your senior dog comfortable, these sessions are also great to note changes in your dog's health. Groomers will be able spot any underlying health issues visible on their skin and coat. Grooming your senior dog regularly can prevent severe matting to their coat. A matted coat can make your elderly dog feel miserable and stressed. Regular bookings with your local groomer will be much appreciated by your dog and our Groomers especially love taking care of the older doggos.
Older dogs need grooming just like younger dogs, more so even. Older dogs can experience dry skin and skin conditions, like yeast infections, more frequently. Regular grooming to prevent and discover conditions and address them as necessary is required. Remember that an older dog may experience physical discomfort moving--take your time to find out what is comfortable for the dog. Make sure you recognize deficiencies in hearing and sight that can make a dog anxious and change their behavior. Move slowly and be gentle and patient while grooming your older dog.
Brushing In between appointments, remember to regularly brush your dog. Many older dogs find it hard to stand for longer periods. When your dog is having an afternoon nap this is a perfect time to gently brush him, while they are lying on their sides. If your dog looks restless, take a break and continue to groom after. With age your dog's skin might grow elastic so be gentle when you are brushing them. These are just a few grooming tips to make your elderly pooch grow old and grey happily and comfortably.
1. The Adjust Methods Method
Keep it short! Keep sessions short to avoid overtiring a senior dog or prolonging the use of sore joints during grooming. Having multiple short sessions daily, instead of one long one, may work better for an older dog. Keep an eye on your older dog for signs of discomfort, anxiety or impatience. Adjust techniques, like using a softer brush, or ending the grooming session early, if your dog indicates discomfort or distress. Incorporate brushing into petting time, or at feeding time, when your dog is distracted if necessary. Allow your dog to lie down and groom one side only, wait and groom the other side when your dog makes it available at a later time, for example.
Massage Massage your older dog with your hands or a grooming glove. Apply natural oils to compensate for dry skin if present and distribute while massaging gently.
Be prepared! Have equipment like nail clippers, brushes and sprays readily available so you do not have to unnecessarily prolong grooming sessions in order to get the tools you will need.
Move Gently Manipulate your dog's joints carefully and slowly to get under the limbs and reach his belly. Remember, joints and muscles can be sore in an older dog.
Do not Startle Move slowly and talk reassuringly to an older dog that is experiencing sight and hearing loss so as not to startle or confuse the dog.
2. Take Special Steps Method
Clean Ears Check older dogs' ears daily. Older dog can easily get imbalances in natural yeasts and bacteria, resulting in infections in the ear. Use ear cleaning solution and a cotton ball to wipe out the ear canal and surrounding area daily.
Bathe Appropriately Bathe older dogs regularly, weekly or biweekly, to remove dead skin, address dryness, and prevent yeast infections and other skin conditions. Use warm water for baths and help your dog into the bath by lifting gently or providing a ramp or steps. Reassure a visually impaired dog that can not see what is happening clearly. Use a soothing oatmeal shampoo or moisturizing shampoo and conditioner to address dryness or an appropriate medicated shampoo to address any skin condition. Massage your older dog gently. Use a washcloth to avoid eyes and sensitive areas.
Keep Warm While Drying Rinse well, pat dry with a towel. If you are air drying, ensure there a warm place for your dog to dry. Avoid blow drying, which can dry out older dogs' skin, burn your older dog, or cause him distress from the noise.
Clean Teeth Check older dogs' teeth and brush regularly. If teeth appear to be experiencing disease, get professional dental care.
Care for Feet Clip hair around your dog's feet and keep nails short, so that your older dog has good traction. Injuries from slipping on floors can be more likely and serious in older dogs and short hair and nails on the feet increase traction.
Caution & Considerations Older dogs may have mobility issues. Move limbs and manipulate joints slowly and carefully. Watch for signs of discomfort and adjust as necessary. Invest in gentler grooming equipment like grooming gloves and softer brushes if your older dog becomes sensitive. Take time and patience, and groom when your dog is feeling up to it. Be flexible. Get prompt veterinary care for any conditions you suspect or discover while grooming your older dog. Move slowly and talk to your dog if he has sight or hearing loss so as not to startle him while grooming.
As with choosing your own hairstylist, looking in the yellow pages isn't the recommended method. You could find yourself contracted with Edward Scissorhands, or the last man on earth that still embraces the mullet. Likewise, the yellow pages and strip mall signs are not good methods for quality decision making. Compile a list of potential groomers and visit each one, taking the following factors into consideration. When choosing your dog groomer consider these important elements:
Cleanliness: Do the staff clean up after each dog's procedure? Are cages kept free of urine and feces? If the smell in the facility is offensive, I would assume the service to be the same. When you patronize a substandard grooming facility, you risk the infection of your dog's skin or worse.
Humane Treatment: Are the animals in the groomer's care treated with a nurturing and patient manner? Are the handlers gentle? Are dogs and cats housed in separate areas? Are cages large enough to accommodate the animals in them? And are dogs under automatic blow dryers monitored, to prevent burning? If, during your visit, the staff at the facility does not seem to be enamored with their furry clients, then imagine how they treat them while not under your scrutiny.
Good Lighting and Organization:Is the facility well-lit? Are work areas well-spaced and organized? If more than one groomer works at a time, does each one have sufficient space to move around his or her workspace? If the groomer is cramped, expected to operate with substandard equipment, or under insufficient lighting, no one can honestly expect the results to be dynamic.
Finished Product: Visit during regular business hours so that you can assess the quality of the hairstyles exiting. Would you be satisfied if your dog were donning the same quality? Crooked cuts and skin nicks are good reasons to cross a groomer's office off your list.
Particular Breed Results: If your dog is of the Terrier persuasion, do not make a decision based on a Golden Retriever's bath and clip. Some groomers specialize in particular breeds, and likewise, some shy away from certain breeds because they do not have the experience or the desire to perform a certain style. Be specific about your dog's breed and the clip style that you fancy. Ask for pictures, and decide for yourself.
Vaccinations: Choose a groomer who requires all canine clients to sport vaccination records - like Rabies and Bordatella - Kennel Cough. This will protect all animals, including yours, that share a space while in the facility.
Familiarize Yourself: Take a few minutes to ask the manager or staff questions involving time required for a visit, appointment availability, cost, pick-up and delivery procedures, and complete services offered.
Tranquilizers: If your dog is of the anxious sort, and will require a tranquilizer for his appointment, ask your groomer if they will administer it. Many will not, unless they are affiliated with a veterinary office, but will accept an animal that has been tranquilized by a veterinarian and transported to the groomer's office.
Additionally, network with your dog's veterinarian, kennel, pet supply retailer, breeder, and pet owner friends for recommendations. Clients who have had a bad experience will talk and so will those who've been satisfied. Rumors travel fast, but so does a good word about a quality product.
You can expect to pay $40 to $60 for your dog's visit to a professional groomer. Of course, that price can vary. Urban locales tend to be pricier. Mobile dog grooming services prices are a bit higher, but so is their convenience factor. And, of course, heavy matting and complex cuts will add bucks to your bill. Whether you chance the groomer next door, or travel three towns south, a finicky attitude is central to grooming success.
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1. Proper grooming starts with understanding what a dog was bred to do Grooming isn't just aesthetic - every part of a dog's haircut has a purpose, including the head floof. For example, poodles were bred to be sporting and hunting dogs. You know those pom-poms on their hips? Those are designed to keep their joints warm in cold water.
2. Dog baths are even nicer than the ones you give yourself We usually spend an hour bathing our dogs. We start off by cleaning their ears and giving them a blueberry facial, which is a concentrated face wash. I will do a clay mask on dogs who have skin issues. Then I choose the shampoo and conditioner to match the dog's coat type, and I give all our dogs an argan oil face mask. Then comes the blow-dry, fluff, and style. I also love to finish with a dry argan oil to keep the follicles hydrated and detangled.
Some groomers go to dog-grooming school, but you will learn a lot more on the job You don't need a certification to work as a groomer, but there are schools that will teach you the basics and certification programs like International Professional Groomers or National Dog Groomers Association of America. I once met a girl who took an online grooming class, and I thought that was bonkers. I spent a year working as a bather - the person who washes the dogs and prepares them for their haircut, and it allowed me to work my way up to actually grooming within a few years. Figuring out how to hold scissors was really hard at first, but you pick it up over time if you practice.
Grooming equipment can get really expensive Any hairstylist can tell you that the better your tools, the better the result and dog grooming is no different. I spend about $400 per shear, and I have 10 pairs. The clippers are about $200 and the clipper blades are $30 each. Those need to be replaced every year or so, depending on the use.
It's harder than human hairstyling and doesn't pay as well The average dog haircut cost about $65, which isn't much considering how much goes into grooming. Groomers make less than hairstylists, and dog haircuts take twice as long. Hairstylists also don't have to deal with trimming their clients' butts and feet.
Dogs feel calm when you feel calm It's true that dogs pick up on your energy. I try to keep my studio very zen: I have a diffuser that spritzes calming essential oils, like chamomile and sandalwood. There are no ringing phones, no barking dogs. I try to meditate twice a day to keep my own energy in check. If I can tell a dog is especially nervous, I will bring my own dog into the room to hang out and doze off. When they see a mellow, sleeping dog, they feel a little safer. For dogs that are especially skittish, I try to gain their trust by showing them that I understand them. For example, I will give them a little head's up and slide my hand down their arm to pick up their paw to clip their nails, instead of just grabbing their paw. Sometimes it takes pups a few visits to relax, but over time, I hopefully gain their trust completely.
Just like a hairstylist needs to understand hair texture, groomers need to understand the differences in dogs' coats There are many different types of coats - long, like a Yorkie; short, like a pit bull, and everything in between. For mutts, you can determine their coat type by looking at it and feeling it. They regulate the dog's temperature and protect the dog's skin from the outside world, so it's very important to properly care for them. Each coat type requires different amounts of oils, and you will use different tools to groom them too.
Sometimes, the dogs get a little out of control There are always going to be dogs that are badly behaved or poorly trained. When that happens, I just take deep breaths and try to get through it, and then I ask the owner to take the dog on an extremely long hike before their next appointment with me. I also ask owners not to "baby talk" their dogs, which will rile them up. If a dog is really crazy or panicked, I've suggested clients use a mobile groomer instead who can come to their house and groom the dog there. It's not good for me or the dog to be in a situation where the dog is fighting my every move.
It's not uncommon to accidentally clip a dog. People accidentally cut dogs all the time, whether with the scissors or the nail trimmers. Fortunately, that hasn't happened to me in years, but it did when I first started. Sometimes groomers accidentally get water in the dog's ears, which can create an ear infection. It's so important to take your time, especially when you're starting out. It's a good idea for groomers to take CPR and first aid classes to know how to react in an emergency, and if a dog is accidentally nicked, I call the owner and ask if they want me to take the dog in to the vet. Fortunately, that's only happened a few times in the 17 years I hve been working with dogs.
People will ask you to do ridiculous things, but you don't have to say yes Sometimes people want me to dye their dogs' hair. If they have a black dog, I definitely won't do that, because it would require bleaching the dog first. I did do a beautiful "sunset" dye on a white Pomeranian, where we did a yellow head, faded to orange in the middle, and then hot pink on the rear and red on the tip of the tail. That was an unusual request, but it was my most beautiful dye job ever.
Working with cute dogs all day is even more fun than you expect i started an Instagram for my grooming business to show off my dogs, because they are seriously so cute and fun. It's so cool to get to spend my whole day with pups. And it's only gotten better since I started working for myself: I have my own space, there's no one rushing me, and the room feels so cozy. It's so rewarding to pamper the dogs and make my human clients happy: They drop off their stinky dog and at the end of the day, they get back a gorgeous, clean fluffball.
You don't have to be perfect For a while, I felt like I had to groom every dog perfectly. If there was even a single hair out of place, I would need to fix it. I grew out of that, thanks to the time I was working at this shop and one of our groomers left, and all of a sudden, I had to take on double the amount of clients. At one point, I was doing 22 dogs in a day - it was crazy. I realized that I could not hand-scissor the perfect cylinder legs on every dog. So I learned to be groom my dogs more efficiently. They still looked amazing, but I had to get over the fact that they weren't "perfect." But the truth is, clients don't care or can't tell if their dogs are "perfect." They just want their dog clean, healthy, happy, and cute and I can do that every single time.
DOG GROOMING MISCONCEPTIONS This article is proudly presented by WWW.SELFSERVE DOGWASH.COM and David A. Grass
Some owners don't wash their canine friends during rainy days or even worse, during the entire winter time because they fear they might get cold.
Wrong! Just think about the heating system that's active during these days in your home. It dries out the skin of your pet making it itchy. There's no reason why you shouldn't wash your dog on colder days. The only thing to be careful with is to make sure his coat is dried before going out. For extra protection, you can always buy him a sweater, if needed! Remember: with the right products you actually help his skin stay hydrated and help him get rid of dry and itchy skin conditions.
MYTH: Frequent bathing is bad for a dog's skin and fur.
This persistent myth has been around a long time. It may be true when using poor quality or human shampoos. But regular bathing with quality, appropriate shampoo, is good for dogs. This becomes readily apparent to anyone who is around a dog that is washed on a regular basis.
MYTH: Longhaired dogs shed more than shorthaired dogs The truth is often actually the opposite. Some longhaired breeds do not shed a whole lot. Or, they may only significantly shed briefly in the spring and fall. However, many breeds with short and medium coats tend to shed heavily all year long, or at least much of it. These include, to name a few: the Labrador Retriever, Rottweiler, German Shepherd, and Corgi.
MYTH: Shaving a dog will reduce or prevent shedding This myth seems devoid of logic. Nevertheless, it is common. A shaved dog will not shed less than an unshaved dog. The hair that comes out will simply be shorter.
MYTH: Shaving a dog will keep it cooler in hot weather Although it may seem counter-intuitive, there will probably be little if any real effect. The density of fur is more important than length when it comes to being cooler in summer or warmer in winter. And nature takes care of that. Dogs that shed profusely in the spring, typically do not lose overall length. Rather, the density of the coat is reduced. Removing loose hair with regular brushing will have greater impact on hot weather comfort than shaving will. Dogs are actually protected from the hot sun by their fur, so too much shaving can result in more heat reaching their bodies, and in rare cases, even sunburn.
MYTH: Shampoo needs to produce lots of lather to be effective Lather is not a good indicator of shampoo quality.
MYTH: There is no reason to use dog shampoo because human shampoos are just as good Human shampoos are good for humans, but not for dogs.
MYTH: The front portion of a dog's body is lighter than the rear The opposite is true. This unbelieveably common misconception comes into play when lifting dogs. Contrary to popular belief, the majority of a dog's mass and thus weight is in the front half of its body. This is due to the large chest that virtually all dogs have in relation to the rest of their bodies, along with the forward leaning neck and head.
MYTH: Dogs feel more safe and comfortable in new or stressful situations when they are coddled and constantly reassured Overreactions by caretakers to normal activities such as bathing, nail trimming, or vet visits tend to make dogs feel LESS safe and more apprehensive.
MYTH: Dryers must produce a great deal of heat to dry dogs, and high-heat blow dryers designed for people will dry dogs faster than forced-air dryers made for dogs Wrong.
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